With proper maintenance and use, our tools can serve for several generations of woodcarvers.

Tools are made from tool-steel which is not resistant to corrosion and in a humid environment can become rusty. Therefore, we recommend storage in a dry environment. Wooden handles are made of hornbeam wood, when working with a hammer or mallet please choose same hard material or softer to prolong the useful tool life.

When storing the tool after work it is recommended to apply a thin layer of oil on the blade. Place in order to avoid mutual abrasion of metalic parts or contacts of blades.

Tools that will get into your hands are already sharpened and polished. By using the tool blade dulls and work with tools becomes more difficult. For quality carving sharp tools is a necessity, and therefore I offer you a gude and recommended way for their sharpening.



M - Stein is not responsible for damage or injury caused by improper use of tools and other sold products. Tool has a cutting edge, therefore advising customers to take extra safety at work and handling, use protective clothing. Abrasives are not edible. Keep out of reach of children. For children and beginners, we recommend working under the supervision of experienced user.




The chisel blades which are very blunt after regular whetting have a rounded blade or they are jagged, we begin to grind with a rough grinding stone. We run the tool edge with circular movements on the stone with water. For better rinsing of debris from the stone, it is suitable to add a few drops of detergent.

We sharpen the cutting edge at an angle of 25°-30°(for soft wood a thinner angle). We sharpen only from the bottom side for as long as the damaged blade is not straightened and until a needle, a thin soft part of steel at the end of the edge appears. Then proceed to a finer stone.

To remove the needle we use a very fine whetting stone (Rozsutec, Arkansas, optionally Synthetic Corundum). As a substitute of whetstones, fine sandpaper of a grit more than 1000 can be used. At the end we polish the edge on the leather using a polishing paste (silichrome or other paste for polishing metals). During whole process keep the selected angle of the cutting edge. Less-blunt or not jagged edges is sufficient to whet with a very fine whetstone and finally also polish on the leather. The inner part of blade is polished and from this side it is not necessary to hone with the stone. It is sufficient to whet them at the end on the leather adjusted to the blade shape.

If the tools are damaged or rusty we have to hone this side also, when we use shaped sharpening whetstones or fine sandpaper on the shaped wood.







It is significantly faster to sharpen the tools on an electrical grinder with carbon-emery disk. Low-speed grinders are suitable, their disks are partly submerged in water which ensures cooling. Machines having a horizontally rotating disc on which the water flows are also suitable. Using conventional grinding machines with a higher speed without cooling can easily cause overheating of the edge which turns blue, therefore the blade is losing the original hardness. Then this part has to be grind off.

After grinding on carborundum disc we whet it at a higher speed on a felt disk, on which we spread the polishing paste. We place the cutting-edge on the disk in direction of disc rotation, so it cannot cut into the disc. The inner polished side of the blade is suitable to whet with a felt disk, which will adapt to the shape of the chisel.

Well sharpened chisel cuts easily and leaves a smooth, shiny gash




I wish you much success
and I hope that our tools will bring you more pleasure to your work


Peter Mészáros




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